The Low Countries often have been the scene of fierce battles. Historians tell about the Menapiers, a tribe living in Belgium which was wiped out by the Roman conquerors. Claudius Civilis of the Batave tribe organised a surrection which spread widely. The Frisians in the norther part of Holland were at the border of the Roman empire, not really inside as the river Rhine formed the limes, but yet often forced to pay tribute, p.e. in cow skins. After that weaponed Franks moved and invaded Brabant at the middle of present Benelux, then proceeded on up to Soissons and Paris. Their original settlements are thought to have been near the river IJsel, a northwards flowing Rhine branch,
During the early Middle Ages Charlemagne often resided in Aachen, now a western tip of Germany, and had his armies sent north to convert the heathen Saxons. Next in feodal times many local wars were fought. Huge castles for defense and controll of the surroundings dat from that period. At one of these, the Muiderslot, this tour starts.
If enough people participate a bus with or without guide can be chartered for around 5000 euro. Around midday the driver or guide makes reservations for hotel or hostel. Every day a few hours may be spent on physical activity.
Doing the tour by public transport is not too difficult, although it will take more time and sometimes a lot of walking or cycling. Bikes sometimes can be rented at railway stations.
first day
===== On the way to the Muiderslot castle a farm is passed with many small bunkers around it, constructed in the first half of the 20th century. The castle, well situated at the mouth of the river Vecht, dates from full flown Middle Ages and later was used as a cultural centre. There is a garden with herbs nextdoor.
Onward to the old city of Utrecht a vast area of meadows is passed which could be flooded by water to protect what is called the fortress Holland. It served up till World War II. In may 1940 the military force that Germany deployed in Holland appeared too small to conquer the country. Its paratroopers were captured near the capital The Hague, the infantry was unable to pass the big dike separating the former Zuyderzee from the North Sea, in Rotterdam the agressors were halted by brave resistance of a marine corps and still there was the frightening Waterlinie. Then Nazi Berlin decided to use terror and bombed civilian neighbourhoods of Rotterdam, perhaps fearing that the fortress Holland might become a gigantic allied base behind the flooded area. Dutch government and parliament in turn, afraid for loss of many lives and much material damage in a conflict wihich was not theirs, decided to desert from the allied camp and had the country surrendered.
Utrecht is famous for its splendid Dom tower and canals. The tower can be climbed in summer.
In the afternoon the Vredespaleis (Palace of Peace, seat of the International Court of Justice) at The Hague may be visited. Mini-city Madurodam is at five minutes distance with the streetcar. Nearby are also the boulevard and beach of Scheveningen for a stroll, a swim or gazing at the fireworks competition in august.
second day
======= The USA government does not recognize authority of the new The Hague based International Court on War Crimes and kind of promised to liberate any American soldier made prisoner by that Court. But that it will come to an invasion on the Scheveningen beach for that purpose seems not likely.
Dutch government resides in the Binnenhof, a castle transformed to a residence. Continue to Delft for a stop at a blue pottery stall. Next is the inner city of Rotterdam in post war build up after the destruction by nazi bombing. Then comes Brielle where the Spanish general Alva was defeated in the Eighty Years War from 1568 till 1648. The Delta works are passed. Middelburg can be seen in reconstructed state after the heavy bombing of may 1940. This peninsula was inundated in 1944 during the battle for Antwerp. Crossing the Westerscheldt by ferry stay overnight in famous ancient Brugge. Before going to bed walking around or making a bicycle excursion will be pleasant.
third day
====== Via Gent to Brussels. Both cities are worth at least a day but this time only a stop at the statue of Manneke Pis for a nice picture might do. Southeast from Brussels is Waterloo with its piramid in remembrance of the battle fought against Napoleon.
In Yper the horn is blown to honour the fallen soldiers of the first World War.
After a pleasant journey through the hilly south of Belgium Bouillon is reached, where its Duke had a gigantic castle fortification built.
At the end of the day there is Luxemburg, a city difficult to conquer because of the steep slopes of encircling meandering rivers. Climbing here or nearby is an option.
fourth day
====== Bastogne lies in the middle of the Ardennes. When the Germans counterattacked in december 1944 and demanded surrender of the enclosed American forces they got as reply "nuts"!
The word spa, designing a bathing resort originates from the city of Spa. Here you may fill your bottle with real Spa water for free.
The border between Belgium and Holland is crossed at a small pass between the hills. There is a song of Boudewijn de Groot: Behind the mountains lies the land of Meuse and Waal( branch of the Rhine).
In Aachen or Aix la Chapelle the medieval buildings of the Charlemagne era can be visited.
Later on the day the tank museum in Loon op Zand in the province of Noord Brabant is worth visiting.
Passing the city of Nijmegen the bridge "which was too far" is reached at Arnhem.
Here the night can be spent, but if enough time is left a visit to the Openlucht Museum with ancient habitations is advised.
Those who like to fly in a glider from Terlet airport may get a glance of operation Market Garden's dropping fields.
fifth day
====== In the forests of the Veluwe plateau pedestrians sometimes meet herds of wild swines with funny striped young ones. Take a stop at the Kröller Muller museum for its Van Gogh collection.
Passing the IJselregion where the Franks came from the tour is continued to Emmen for lunch and opportunity to visit the Vlindertuin at the Zoo.
Then go back five thousand years in time and arrive at the epoch with piramid building in Egypt. Here people buried their deaths in hunebeds. The museum in Borger gives full details. It stands besides such a huge well preserved megalithic monument. If interested also a short walk in the village of Orvelte, with daily life of a few centuries back, can be taken.
Next is Ter Apel with its cloister, small forest and herberg for tea.
A small détour brings to the "veenkoloniën", colonized only after the Europeans parted en masse for America. Next the bus passes the tiny slot Wedde, where the 16th century liberation war started to get rid of the landlord who had become Spanish king. Continue on the main road of Bellingwolde with some beautiful farmers mansions to see.
The difference in size of the farm houses is explained by varying fertility of the soil. The clay grounds gave the richest harvests and this was sold at good prices before the steamship appeared on the scene and brought cheap weat from the American prairies to Europe.
After a glimpse on the nice statue at Heiligerlee, remembering a big battle with Spanish troops, stay overnight in the village of Finsterwolde. A few expensive rooms are available in the "here-boerderijen", big farmer mansions, but especially try to have a drink with the local communists. Yes they still exist. This village and nearby Beerta almost always have an utmost leftish community council and you may discuss about pro and contra of ideologies.
For those not up to much talking driving a harvest machine (combine) with its wheels at the rear and many this and that to manoeuvre is possible. The regional Groningen dialect has several words in common with english, like "we, you, cow" and an airplane is called a flymachine. English partly originates from the continent and here you can discern some roots.
The dutch language group to which the Groningen dialect belongs has increased in importance for scientists because many thousand of years ago the proto dutch speakers presumably were habituated to make new words by choosing certain vowels to indicate form in p.e. three letter words and using certain consonants to express "bordersharpness" of a thing and also motion. This ability has vanished but might be reintroduced, later also into english.
sixth day
===== This day concentration is not on human war and battlesites, but if the weather is fine
an area conquered on the sea and another not so, the Dollard, can be sighted. Before reaching the main protecting dike several sleeper dikes are passed. A windmill may be visited and on some days one of those little old medieval churches for an organ concert. By ferry the trip on the Waddenzee is made to the beautiful island of Schiermonnikoog, which has a small current of very warm water along its beach in summerdays when the sun is bright and the tide cooperates. Its temperature is raised in the shallow Waddenzee. From the village of Pieterburen one can cross the Waddenzee at low tide (guide obligatory) and afterwards back by boat you' ll be stunned how ever you passed there on foot!
Once there were in and around this part of Holland the North Sea, the Zuyderzee, the Waddenzee, the Lauwerszee (now Lauwersmeer from where the ferry leaves) and the Middelzee. At the border of the latter was founded Leeuwarden or Ljouwerd or write its name in one of the other hundred existing spellings. This makes clear which people gave names to the North Sea and the Zuyderzee, namely the seafaring Frisians of the early Middle Ages.
Back to Amsterdam via the big dike Afsluitdijk and the to the Spaniards victorious city of Alkmaar with its cheese market if not staying a longer while on a wadden island or sailing on a Frisian lake.
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